Pompeii - Amphitheatre

Pompeii Amphitheatre, first view

Standing in the farthest south east corner of the city, the amphitheatre in Pompeii is impressive, even though just two days before I have been standing in the coliseum  in Rome the amphitheatre in Pompeii is grand. It lacks much of the complicated vaulting and substructure of the coliseum however it predates it by over a hundred years.

This is the oldest surviving amphitheatre in the ancient world and it is very practical and elegant in its simplicity. It may not have the decor and flourishes of the amphitheatre in Arles or Verona, but its the oldest of the bunch. 

It is oval in shape and consists of dozens of arches supporting the seating for thousands of spectators. There are a number of entrances that lead straight to the floor of the arena and a magnificent staircase also supported by arches.

Amphitheatre inside, nice brickwork

Standing in the arena in the rain it does seem a little forlorn. It’s hard to imagine the clash of weapons and the blood and sweat of hand to hand gladiatorial combat while chewing on an energy bar in the grey drizzle of late December.

In AD 59 a riot broke out during some games that involved a rival town. Next thing you know half the police chariots have been overturned and a bunch of people have accidentally been stabbed to death. Soccer riots first century style.  Because of this little tussle, games were banned from being held in Pompeii for ten years. However good old Nero had the games reinstated not too long after the incident because his most recent wife was from the area and even an emperor wants to be on the good side of his in-laws. That is of course until one grows weary of them and has them all smothered to death during Saturnalia dinner (dramatization, I don’t think he ever did that). 

I'll leave you with a view from the floor of the area where so much blood was spilled, like cheap beer at a frat party. 

Pompeii amphitheater