Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Naples - Castel Capuano

The back end of Castel Capuano - Porta Capuana
The Castel Capuano is another of the castles in Naples. It was a violent place…

Named after the east-west roman road that led to Capua (which the gate is also named for, even though it was moved four hundred years ago and no longer straddles the road) this is the second oldest castle in Naples. After the Castel Nuovo was built it seems to have been relegated to the role of a secondary palace or guest/dower house (think Blair House, in Washington, DC). 

As with most palaces it has a long history of famous visitors (Petrarch for one) and palace intrigue (the occasional murder of someone’s lover) and momentous events (Black plague, looting, black plague, wars, black plague, lavish royal weddings, black plague…etc.). It was briefly the royal residence under Ladislaus and Queen Joan II, but then fell back into disuse.

In the 1530’s the building was remodeled as the Palace of Justice. This act consolidated all of the individual courts and offices all over the city of Naples into one gigantic structure (some things never change). A new prison was built in the cellars along with the very in latest torture chambers, it’s all fun and games until someone pulls out the thumbscrews….

The appearance today is the result of a mid 19th century “restoration” that seems to have heavily romanticized the medieval structure.

An interesting note, on the rear of the structure is a fountain from the 1470’s that was built as a horse trough. It's hidden behind the open air vending machines and the newsagents. I kid you not...


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