Naples - First Polytechnic Hospital

First Polytechnic Hospital 

From the Piazza Bellini if one heads east and away from the “major” street of Via Santa Maria di Constantinopoli, down the side streets where the Music Conservatory is located, you will come to a large fenced surface parking lot. The stretches across what is, for Naples, a large open space with a six story beige semi-castellated debased classical building of gargantuan proportions. The whole thing just screams hospital or mental asylum. And in fact it turned out to be the First Polytechnic Hospital. Built in the early 20th century it looms….not over anything in particular just general looming.

Right out front though there are some brilliant views and picture opportunities of the old brick tower attached to the old church of San Pietro a Marjella (now part of the Music Conservatory) and of Santa Maria Maggiore and it’s brick tower.

As we were coming around the corner a gentleman was telling some tourists a rather interesting story.  It involved the castrati (castrato singular) and the Music Conservatory. There are whole histories about the castrati from can be read or watched in many places.  The last work written for the role of a  castrato was in 1824. The practice continued, but with the Unification of Italy. It was made illegal to create new castrati and even to employ them in certain cases. Since the early 1900's the high voices are supplied by youths, mostly younger boys.

After years at St. Joseph's under the care of the Sisters of the Sacred Heart, I understand. One day my voice cracked and I was moved to the baritones. Relegated to providing background "glorias & lacrimosa's" until I emigrated to America; where I found my voice more suited to musicals.

This isn't about me. I digress as is my wont...The tour guide was explaining that this hospital is where people sent their (excess) children to become castrati. The tour guide was so sincere and his group so titillated, I just walked on. Everyone loves a scandalous past as long as it is truly past. If your father was politically ruined by having an affair with his secretary..that = horror/scandal.  If your great grandfather was a privateer that worked for pay and enslaved people for profit, well he is just a great American patriot. Sorry that was mean and I apologize.

Considering that the hospital was finished around 1908 and the last "official castrati" was "created"  in 1870 I’s say there were some flaws in his tale. It was fun to listen to, especially the hand gestures.

I eventually found the picture and here it is attached. 

Naples - Piazza Bellini, Greek Walls and Music Conservatory

Piazza Bellini

Greek Walls

Bellini led a short, but not tragic life. Ten of his eleven operas were successes and he was a well off man when he died at 
33 just outside Paris. 

He studied at the Music Conservatory which is located right next to the piazza now named for him and that bears a statue on a pedestal high enough that most of the graffiti remains at ground level.  I read that the four blocks at the corner of the statue once contained statues representing the heroines of his opera. They have since been removed. 

Also in this square can be found the remains of the Greek walls of the ancient city of Neapolis. I didn't see a sign when I was there pointing out what they were, however I had read about them before hand.  This square reminded me of Paris in a strange odd way. 

Walking towards the conservatory on a Holiday afternoon we heard classical piano music drifting from open windows of the old world flats nearby and the occasional operatic piece floated from a lace curtained window, music was everywhere drifting down from flower bedecked balconies on decrepit buildings. It was perfect. 

Then a man began to follow us and ask us for money. And he wouldn't go away, and after a block or so he began shouting. Now my Italian might be a wee bit rusty, but I am sure those were not the sort of words one wants to say in front of one's mother. Ah Naples, the passion, the pathos! Such life this city has!  Seriously though, lovely little piazza.

Naples Music Conservatory