Naples - San Lorenzo Maggiore

Piazza Gaetano and San Lorenzo Maggiore

Right at the intersection of the Via Tribunale and the Via San Gregorio Armeno in the Piazza San Gaetano the church of San Lorenzo is yet another superb example of baroque architecture. At least from the outside, sort of. In any case It is one of those brightly colored highly decorated mid 18th century façades that appears out of nowhere, wedged in a corner attached to a six story block of flats on the left and a very large bell tower to the right that forms the edge of the Via San Gregorio Armeno.

The façade is divided into two levels; on the bottom level four be-swagged composite pilasters divide it into three bays. Two tremendously large  statues flank an ancient Gothic pointed portal. Each is within its own square niche, set above graffiti level and capped with a bas relief of a couple of popes tiaras and the keys of St. Peter.

On the second level bass reliefs are set between smaller composite pilasters on either side of a extremely large octagonal window. Above all of this a unique break-fronted semi broken pediment with a round oculus window. On top of all of that it is orange, which makes me happy. I like orange.

The interior has been heavily restored back to its Gothic roots. The unique (at least among churches in Naples) apse is of French inspiration and rather remarkable piece of stark Gothic architecture in a city of such over exuberant decoration.

The square itself is rather fascinating. Standing on the site of the ancient Greek and later Roman forum, it has been the center of Naples for some 2400 years. Named for the tomb of San Gaetano which is inside the church of San Paolo Maggiore. The buildings even mark where the ancient buildings were. San Lorenzo Maggiore is over the ancient temple of Castor and Pollux, while San Paolo Maggiore was built over the site of the ancient Curia of Naples. There is a a statue of San Gaetano in the square, he looks quite ecstatic. Though not quite sure why? He battled against the church of Rome in the 16th century, trying to reform corruption and greed. Eventually he died of exhaustion and grief in 1547 after saying some rather profound words on his death bed.

San Lorenzo Maggiore, Gothic portal and baroque additions