Naples - Galleria Umberto I

Galleria Umberto I with the arcade of Teatro San Carlo to the left

Just to the west of the Castel Nuovo are the gardens of the Palazzo Reale (surrounded by a high wrought iron fence), the Teatro San Carlo and the entrance to the Galleria Umberto I. The latter is a nineteenth century wonder of engineering and a frosted tea cake of architecture both inside and outside. It is immense and a little overwhelming in scale. Personally I liked it; flamboyant, grand, overbearing a bit shabby, perfectly Naples. By shabby I mean; like most things in Naples it was a little gritty, but that is all part of its charm. Just ignore the man urinating in the corner, I did, twice or was it three times? I kid you not.

Inside Galleria Umberto I

The vaulted glass roof (so reminiscent of the crystal palace), the gilded angels, the vast quantity of marble, the delicate mosaics; all indicate that this was one of those massive projects undertaken after the unification of Italy. Apparently it was under the weather for quite some time (40 years), though now it is a bustling hub of activity.

The floor is covered in a beautiful mosaic with the signs of the zodiac in the center under the glass dome. Being the holidays there was a huge Christmas tree chillaxing in one of the wings.

There are four entrances/exits: South to the Teatro San Carlo, beautifully framed by the arch and colonnade, the North and East exits open onto rather dull narrow streets (Via Santa Brigida and Via Giuseppe Verdi respectively), The West entrance is on the Via Toledo (AKA Via Roma), the femoral artery of Naples. Frantically busy both day and night, loud boisterous, entertaining and chillingly frightening at the same time.

Will I? Won’t I? Will I? Won’t I? Get shanked in the Via Toledo tonight?

Towards the post office inside Galleria Umberto I