Naples - December 31, 2011 - Galleria Principe

Galleria Principe  looking noth

 Across from the Archaeological Museum in Naples is a smaller version of the galleria Umberto I.  Though it has a large loggia on the facade, it is sort of easy to miss the entrance unless you are looking for it.

Built on a more human scale than the Galleria Umberto and pretty empty of shops the Galleria Principe is much more intimate.  Though still inhabited by pigeons, it has recently been restored to it's former glory.

This place has so much potential, there was nothing open when we visited, however it looks like there is a cafe that might be open at some time.

There is just so much decoration, I couldn't really absorb all of the details until I got home and could really examine the pictures.

Built between 1870 and 1883 it is also older than the Umberto. Unfortunately it never had the success of the latter, possibly because of the location, possibly because it was one of the first buildings of the new Italian Nation.

Galleria Principe, looking east 

When it was built the Church of Santa Maria de Constantinople was in the way of the logical fourth arm. Thus it does seem a little truncated and this may have been art of the reason for it's dismal record.

Personally I really liked this one and was very happy that I was privileged enough to see this place.

Naples - Galleria Umberto I

Galleria Umberto I with the arcade of Teatro San Carlo to the left

Just to the west of the Castel Nuovo are the gardens of the Palazzo Reale (surrounded by a high wrought iron fence), the Teatro San Carlo and the entrance to the Galleria Umberto I. The latter is a nineteenth century wonder of engineering and a frosted tea cake of architecture both inside and outside. It is immense and a little overwhelming in scale. Personally I liked it; flamboyant, grand, overbearing a bit shabby, perfectly Naples. By shabby I mean; like most things in Naples it was a little gritty, but that is all part of its charm. Just ignore the man urinating in the corner, I did, twice or was it three times? I kid you not.

Inside Galleria Umberto I

The vaulted glass roof (so reminiscent of the crystal palace), the gilded angels, the vast quantity of marble, the delicate mosaics; all indicate that this was one of those massive projects undertaken after the unification of Italy. Apparently it was under the weather for quite some time (40 years), though now it is a bustling hub of activity.

The floor is covered in a beautiful mosaic with the signs of the zodiac in the center under the glass dome. Being the holidays there was a huge Christmas tree chillaxing in one of the wings.

There are four entrances/exits: South to the Teatro San Carlo, beautifully framed by the arch and colonnade, the North and East exits open onto rather dull narrow streets (Via Santa Brigida and Via Giuseppe Verdi respectively), The West entrance is on the Via Toledo (AKA Via Roma), the femoral artery of Naples. Frantically busy both day and night, loud boisterous, entertaining and chillingly frightening at the same time.

Will I? Won’t I? Will I? Won’t I? Get shanked in the Via Toledo tonight?

Towards the post office inside Galleria Umberto I