Naples - San Filippo e Giacomo

Church of San Filippo e Giacomo

Just a little to the west of Via San Gregorio Armeno down the extremely narrow Via S. Baigio dei Librai is the church of San Filippo e Giacomo.

The façade reconstructed in 1758 has often been compared to works by Borromini, the unfortunate architect behind San Carlo a Quattro Fontaine in Rome. This is another church that just appears out of nowhere next to a rather rickety looking block of flats with the cutest little Juliet balconies. I digress as is my wont…

The façade is divided into two superimposed orders. On the ground level a portal with a rounded pediment supported by a pair of engaged Ionic columns with swags of stone cloth hanging from the volutes, (whimsical! Also interestingly similar to San Lorenzo Maggiore which is in this same neighborhood and reworked about the same time) is flanked by niches filled with gigantic statues of St. Filippo (Phillip) and St. Giacomo (James). Each of the Apostles looks rather grand and stands on a funky beveled pedestal.

The second story has four well proportioned Corinthian pilasters and a couple more statues, topped off with a triangular pediment over the central projection only. All of this in whitish stone over a yellow painted stucco ground. Very bright, very pretty.

When I think how the bright colours and innovative shapes of the Neapolitan baroque remind me of St. Petersburg, I am also reminded that most of the architects in the mid 18th century in Russia were Italian (Rastrelli et al).

Saint James (Giacomo, also the name of my Neapolitan great-grandfather), son of Alphaeus was one of the Apostles, though he isn’t really mentioned much in the New Testament. Which is understandable there was someone else there who had a bit more of a starring role.

Saint Phillip (Filippo) we know a little more about. Also one of the Apostles and the patron saint of pastry chefs (for obvious reasons laid out in John) and hatters (I have no clue, perhaps he was mad? Maybe he dealt in felt or mercury?). Phillip was originally from Bethsaida and he died (either by being crucified upside down or by beheading or possibly from being hung upside down from a tree) up in what is now Turkey sometime in the late first century. Surprisingly enough in 2011 “archeologists” claimed to have found his tomb in Hierapolis. As they say; Investigations are ongoing.

The church of San Filippo e Giacomo from the Via San Biagio dei Librai 

Naples - San Lorenzo Maggiore

Piazza Gaetano and San Lorenzo Maggiore

Right at the intersection of the Via Tribunale and the Via San Gregorio Armeno in the Piazza San Gaetano the church of San Lorenzo is yet another superb example of baroque architecture. At least from the outside, sort of. In any case It is one of those brightly colored highly decorated mid 18th century façades that appears out of nowhere, wedged in a corner attached to a six story block of flats on the left and a very large bell tower to the right that forms the edge of the Via San Gregorio Armeno.

The façade is divided into two levels; on the bottom level four be-swagged composite pilasters divide it into three bays. Two tremendously large  statues flank an ancient Gothic pointed portal. Each is within its own square niche, set above graffiti level and capped with a bas relief of a couple of popes tiaras and the keys of St. Peter.

On the second level bass reliefs are set between smaller composite pilasters on either side of a extremely large octagonal window. Above all of this a unique break-fronted semi broken pediment with a round oculus window. On top of all of that it is orange, which makes me happy. I like orange.

The interior has been heavily restored back to its Gothic roots. The unique (at least among churches in Naples) apse is of French inspiration and rather remarkable piece of stark Gothic architecture in a city of such over exuberant decoration.

The square itself is rather fascinating. Standing on the site of the ancient Greek and later Roman forum, it has been the center of Naples for some 2400 years. Named for the tomb of San Gaetano which is inside the church of San Paolo Maggiore. The buildings even mark where the ancient buildings were. San Lorenzo Maggiore is over the ancient temple of Castor and Pollux, while San Paolo Maggiore was built over the site of the ancient Curia of Naples. There is a a statue of San Gaetano in the square, he looks quite ecstatic. Though not quite sure why? He battled against the church of Rome in the 16th century, trying to reform corruption and greed. Eventually he died of exhaustion and grief in 1547 after saying some rather profound words on his death bed.

San Lorenzo Maggiore, Gothic portal and baroque additions 

Naples - Castel Capuano

The back end of Castel Capuano - Porta Capuana

The Castel Capuano is another of the castles in Naples. It was a violent place…

Named after the east-west roman road that led to Capua (which the gate is also named for, even though it was moved four hundred years ago and no longer straddles the road) this is the second oldest castle in Naples. After the Castel Nuovo was built it seems to have been relegated to the role of a secondary palace or guest/dower house (think Blair House, in Washington, DC). 

As with most palaces it has a long history of famous visitors (Petrarch for one) and palace intrigue (the occasional murder of someone’s lover) and momentous events (Black plague, looting, black plague, wars, black plague, lavish royal weddings, black plague…etc.). It was briefly the royal residence under Ladislaus and Queen Joan II, but then fell back into disuse.

In the 1530’s the building was remodeled as the Palace of Justice. This act consolidated all of the individual courts and offices all over the city of Naples into one gigantic structure (some things never change). A new prison was built in the cellars along with the very in latest torture chambers, it’s all fun and games until someone pulls out the thumbscrews….

The appearance today is the result of a mid 19th century “restoration” that seems to have heavily romanticized the medieval structure.

An interesting note, on the rear of the structure is a fountain from the 1470’s that was built as a horse trough. It's hidden behind the open air vending machines and the newsagents. I kid you not...

Naples - San Gennaro Shrine - Porta Capuana

San Gennaro Shrine at Porta Capuana

Just outside the Church of Santa Caterina in Formiello there is a baroque shrine to San Gennaro (Januarius) patron saint of Naples. Constructed from black and white contrasting marble, two pilasters and a pair of volutes flank a bust of San Gennaro in an octagonal frame above a bas relief white marble drapery. Above this a broken pediment contains a coat of arms and two b@stard cherubs. Because as we all know everything needs more cherubs.

St. Januarius was born into a rich family sometime in the third century. He became the bishop of Naples and then annoyed the wrong people (namely the government of Emperor Diocletian, the only Roman emperor to retire of his own will) and was either torn apart by bears or beheaded or both. The cathedral of Naples is dedicated to him and it is here in Naples that his dried blood liquefies three times a year.

If you are ever in New York around the 19th of September (one of the days that the blood liquefies) check out the feast of San Gennaro in Little Italy.

Naples - Santa Caterina in Formiello

Santa Caterina in Formiello 

On the western side of the gate is the Piazza Enrico de Nicola and the Church of Santa Caterina in Formiello. Built in the very early 16th century this church has a sedate dignity in a fine contrast to the many baroque churches in Naples. Finely carved grey stone pilasters, courses, volutes, obelisks and a foof balustrade contrast with the plain white stucco walls. The western portal is carved from white marble and is restrained and flamboyant at the same time, possibly added or modified later in the 17th century.

Much has been written about the dome, which is supposed to be the first of its type in Naples. I cannot verify that, I can however vouch for the fact that there are at least a dozen similar domes in Naples.

Naples - Porta Capuana

Porta Capuana - rain in December...

Just north of the train station on a piazza on the west side of the Corso Giuseppe Garabaldi is part of the old Aragonese city walls. Or at least one gate; the Porta Capuana, named after the east-west roman road that led to Capua even though it was moved four hundred years ago and no longer straddles the road, stands like a triumphal arch beckoning and daring one to walk underneath its glory.

These walls were built under the expansion of the city under Spanish rule in the 15th century. Though the walls were demolished some time ago a number of the gate remain around the city as sort of curiosities. This one was heavily built over until the late nineteenth or early twentieth century. Old photographs show the buildings coming right up to it and even over it.

Like the castle Nuovo this is built out of the local dark grey stone, but has a magnificent triumphal arch in white marble. The treatment of the carving is superb and has some of those delightful Neapolitan renaissance quirky anomalies. For example the winged victories and the Corinthian columns are almost mirror images of ancient Roman examples, but the statues flanking the central shield are very stiff and unyielding, pointing to their 1484 date.

On the western side of the gate the Piazza Enrico de Nicola was filled with garbage. And some tremendously gorgeous buildings, but still a lot of garbage. It was a holiday, so I will have to assume it was a one off occurrence...though I might be a little optimistic.

Triumphal arch in the Porta Capuana; through the arch can be seen Santa Caterina a Formiello

Overall, brilliant...really brill. 

Naples - First Polytechnic Hospital

First Polytechnic Hospital 

From the Piazza Bellini if one heads east and away from the “major” street of Via Santa Maria di Constantinopoli, down the side streets where the Music Conservatory is located, you will come to a large fenced surface parking lot. The stretches across what is, for Naples, a large open space with a six story beige semi-castellated debased classical building of gargantuan proportions. The whole thing just screams hospital or mental asylum. And in fact it turned out to be the First Polytechnic Hospital. Built in the early 20th century it looms….not over anything in particular just general looming.

Right out front though there are some brilliant views and picture opportunities of the old brick tower attached to the old church of San Pietro a Marjella (now part of the Music Conservatory) and of Santa Maria Maggiore and it’s brick tower.

As we were coming around the corner a gentleman was telling some tourists a rather interesting story.  It involved the castrati (castrato singular) and the Music Conservatory. There are whole histories about the castrati from can be read or watched in many places.  The last work written for the role of a  castrato was in 1824. The practice continued, but with the Unification of Italy. It was made illegal to create new castrati and even to employ them in certain cases. Since the early 1900's the high voices are supplied by youths, mostly younger boys.

After years at St. Joseph's under the care of the Sisters of the Sacred Heart, I understand. One day my voice cracked and I was moved to the baritones. Relegated to providing background "glorias & lacrimosa's" until I emigrated to America; where I found my voice more suited to musicals.

This isn't about me. I digress as is my wont...The tour guide was explaining that this hospital is where people sent their (excess) children to become castrati. The tour guide was so sincere and his group so titillated, I just walked on. Everyone loves a scandalous past as long as it is truly past. If your father was politically ruined by having an affair with his secretary..that = horror/scandal.  If your great grandfather was a privateer that worked for pay and enslaved people for profit, well he is just a great American patriot. Sorry that was mean and I apologize.

Considering that the hospital was finished around 1908 and the last "official castrati" was "created"  in 1870 I’s say there were some flaws in his tale. It was fun to listen to, especially the hand gestures.

I eventually found the picture and here it is attached. 

Naples - Piazza Bellini, Greek Walls and Music Conservatory

Piazza Bellini

Greek Walls

Bellini led a short, but not tragic life. Ten of his eleven operas were successes and he was a well off man when he died at 
33 just outside Paris. 

He studied at the Music Conservatory which is located right next to the piazza now named for him and that bears a statue on a pedestal high enough that most of the graffiti remains at ground level.  I read that the four blocks at the corner of the statue once contained statues representing the heroines of his opera. They have since been removed. 

Also in this square can be found the remains of the Greek walls of the ancient city of Neapolis. I didn't see a sign when I was there pointing out what they were, however I had read about them before hand.  This square reminded me of Paris in a strange odd way. 

Walking towards the conservatory on a Holiday afternoon we heard classical piano music drifting from open windows of the old world flats nearby and the occasional operatic piece floated from a lace curtained window, music was everywhere drifting down from flower bedecked balconies on decrepit buildings. It was perfect. 

Then a man began to follow us and ask us for money. And he wouldn't go away, and after a block or so he began shouting. Now my Italian might be a wee bit rusty, but I am sure those were not the sort of words one wants to say in front of one's mother. Ah Naples, the passion, the pathos! Such life this city has!  Seriously though, lovely little piazza.

Naples Music Conservatory 

Naples - St. Michael the Archangel - Church

Front of St. Michael the Archangel

This church is located at the south end of Piazza Dante and fronting Via Toledo. St. Michael the Archangel is one of those churches where all of the architecture happens on the front leaving the sides and rear primed and ready bare canvases for graffiti. Slightly gritty, I was fascinated by the big mushroom shaped windows. The window on the front is almost lost in the serpentine and yet ponderous decoration, including the usual suspects: engaged columns, pilasters, broken pediments, big stone things with teeth and enormous c-scrolls. Not to mention an instantly recognizable statue of St. Michael

However the north side of the church is plain stucco and has the same delightfully shaped playful window. I believe the church has been recently restored on the inside. It was however not open when we were visiting.

Side of St. Michael the Archangel from Piazza Dante- Magic mushroom window! 

Naples - Piazza Dante

Piazza Dante, Christmas time 

Like Vittorio Emanuele, Umberto I and Garibaldi nearly every Italian town of any consequence has to have something named after Dante.

In Naples it is a semi-circular piazza off the Via Toledo not too far from the Palazzo di Capodimonte.    

Constructed in the 1760's the east side of the piazza is a range of columns topped with a dozen or more statues with a central tower of ingenious construction.

The square was recently remodeled into a pedestrian zone and at the time of our arrival the giant statue of Dante was swaddled in scaffolding and tarps.

To the north there is a gate topped with flying cherubs and cartouches which leads to the Piazza Bellini and the music conservatory.

Bordering on the south and facing the Via Toledo is the Church of St. Michael the Archangel, where my traveling companions great grandparents may have been married. I have to say I love the magic mushroom windows on this building. Very Mario.

On the right, gate that led to lovely secluded street on the way to Piazza Bellini

Super cute street heading east from Piazza Dante to Piazza Bellini

Naples - University of Naples Federico II

University Facade from Hotel Naples 

The University of Naples was founded by Federico II in 1224 after a rocky start it became the largest university in the south of Italy with a student body of nearly 100 thousand as of 2010.

Expanded many times since its founding (the current Archaeological Museum was built as the new university in 1615). It’s currant 1777 façade on Corso Umberto I is just that, a facade. It hides behind it and amazing hodgepodge maze of 15-16th century towers, gates and random brick buildings. 

The facade is very well done in the early neoclassical style. Built out of lovely grey and white contrasting stone starting with a ground floor of rustic ashlar work with alternate rows of pedimented and round arch topped windows above. in the center is a projecting pavilion with engaged Corinthian pilasters and a large pediment with over life-size statues of the arts. The whole is flanked by two projecting pavilions of three bays with Corinthian pilasters at the corners. 

Winged Sphinxes guard the entrance and the whole is smothered in that carefree graffiti that the Neapolitans apply with such endearment to their monuments. 

Facade of the University of Naples Federico II 

My hotel was directly across the street from this building and from our room we had a birds eye view of the sculptures on the pediment.

Naples - Santa Maria Maggiore

Santa Maria Maggiore 

Unfinished baroque facade on
S. Maria Maggiore

From the piazza in front of San Domenico a short walk in the right direction will lead you to the Piazza Luigi Misaglia (I have no idea who he is when he’s at home) from the take a right and walk north westish on the Via del Sole on your right will be the very old looking Chiesa Santa Maria Maggiore, and an even older looking bell tower (funny after research discovered the reverse is true, but they are both very old). At some point during the renaissance baroque era someone decided to remodel the facade. The got up to the second story and then it just sort of stops. It's still an interesting play of light and shadow with the columns and the staircase that has this fluid rounded edge that is almost architecturally perfect.

First the Chiesa Santa Maria Maggiore: Built in 533 it is one of the oldest churches in Naples. Here is how it came to be….in 533 the Virgin Mary appeared to the Bishop of Naples and told him that he needed to chase away a pig the possessed by the devil and had been frightening the peasants.   The good ,bishop strapped on his six shooter and went a'huntin'. Soon enough he chased away the demon pig and had this church built on the foundations of an old temple to Diana. The church was remodled a bit in the 17th century but still has that edict of Constantine look to it. Here is the remarkable thing. 

The brick belfry that is next to the church was built in 900 CE. That’s right 900 CE, not 1900, 900.

That is very-very old for such a tall freestanding building made out of bricks and mortar instead of stone. The base of the tower is made up of bits of old roman buildings, apparently from the aforementioned temple of Diana.  There always seems to be a temple of  Diana nearby, or Venus. Even my grandparents lived next to a temple of Venus that was found in a field in Chester. Popular Goddess there...can't imagine why.

In the picture below you can clearly see the hodgepodge of old Roman marble incorporated into the belfry structure. Bits of column, cornice, dentil and egg and dart molding, even what look to be bits of the old altar, it's all here. 

Waste not, want not...

Naples - Palazzo Saluzza di Corigliano

A palace on the San Domenico square that was entirely rebuilt after the earthquake of 1688. For some reason I did not get a good picture of it. Though I did capture the beauty of one of the ground floor windows with an inspirational quote applied in paint to enliven our progress through the city.

It was even in English.

Inspirational Writing in Naples on the Palazzo Saluzza di Corigliano

Naples - Church of Sant'Angelo a Nilo

Faux Brickwork on Sant'Angelo a Nilo

Sant'Angelo a Nilo (and hard to sell flat)

I almost completely overlooked this church and yet I photographed it twice the first full day we were in Naples. The name Sant’Angelo a Nilo comes from the fact that it is right next to the Piazetta del Nilo and being dedicated to Sant’Angelo. St. Angelo (as in Castel Sant’Angelo) was born in Holy Land the rock (stoning) and roll (head rolling)era of the late 12th century. He and a twin brother entered the Carmelite order and he was eventually ordained. He traveled around the eastern Mediterranean performing odd job miracles and denouncing wickedness as he went. Until he got to Sicily, whereupon he dissed the wrong wicked man and was brutally and publicly murdered while preaching in front of the Cathedral in Licata. Alternately the story goes that he caused Berengarius’ (AKA: “Wicked Dude”) partner who was living in sin, to get up and go away. This of course made Berengarius very angry and he publicly and brutally murdered Saint Angelo while he was preaching in front of the Cathedral in Licata. Either way the end result was the same. As the saint lay dying in the street (or in some stories four days later as he died of his wounds) he prayed for forgiveness for his murderer, which is a very saintly thing to do.

The Plague of 1656 mentioned in this blog was supposed stopped by his intersession, but I thought that was Saint Dominico? Maybe it was a joint effort.

The church itself was built in the 14th century (begun 1384-85) though estensivly remodeled in the  1500’s. In appearance it is more like a Russian Palace than a church? Perhaps this is because the long side is the most visible. Overall it is grey (for the architectural details) on a background of red, sort of a dark almost blood red the colour of the Terem Palace at the Kremlin or a smoky brick terraced house in Newcastle. There are two baroque niches on the façade flanking the portal on the long side of the church each with a statue, above there are three windows that have been accosted by several cherubs (I believe a gang of four). The pilasters appear to be made out of stone, however the rest of the grey and red appears to be just stucco. The red background is scored to resemble brick, and it does actually fool the eye from a distance. However when you get close up you can see the rubble wall behind where large sheets of stucco have fallen off the walls.

The church has the cutest little bell tower, it’s so itsy bitsy. And connected to a residential building. In fact the bells are right next to the wall of the fourth floor of said residential building. I wonder how the real estate agent deals with that situation?

Church of Sant'Angelo a Nilo, PIazetta Nilo Facade. Cherubs of doom! 

Naples - Piazetta Nilo

Nile Statue, Piazetta Nilo

Sant'Angelo a Nilo in Piazetta Nilo

This tiny Piazza (Piazetta) is home to an anthropomorphic personification statue of the Nile. The river god is shown reclining with a overflowing cornucopia and two animals. One a sort of crocodile like thing with lion paws and lacking a dead and another headless thing with paws that I can’t quite identify. Most likely from a Temple of Serapis or Isis that was built nearby. The statue was lost for a while then set up again in the 12th century. During the baroque era someone restored the missing head, giving it a sort of “Old Man River” look. The twisted tresses are like something one might see in a William Blake Illustration.

On a fun note: Since Medieval times it has supposedly whispered to passersby (apparently especially women). I haven’t found any records of what it allegedly said. More than likely it said (go away from here swiftly or you will be mugged) slightly sketchy area, but not more so than other parts of the historic district of Naples. All the more charming for that.

In fact there are some delightful streets radiating off the square that personify old Naples.  Via Paladino Giovanni is lovely (in the right light).


Looking into Via Paladino Giovanni


Nile statue with the five story renaissance Palazzo Parnormita in the background