Naples - Castel Capuano

The back end of Castel Capuano - Porta Capuana

The Castel Capuano is another of the castles in Naples. It was a violent place…

Named after the east-west roman road that led to Capua (which the gate is also named for, even though it was moved four hundred years ago and no longer straddles the road) this is the second oldest castle in Naples. After the Castel Nuovo was built it seems to have been relegated to the role of a secondary palace or guest/dower house (think Blair House, in Washington, DC). 

As with most palaces it has a long history of famous visitors (Petrarch for one) and palace intrigue (the occasional murder of someone’s lover) and momentous events (Black plague, looting, black plague, wars, black plague, lavish royal weddings, black plague…etc.). It was briefly the royal residence under Ladislaus and Queen Joan II, but then fell back into disuse.

In the 1530’s the building was remodeled as the Palace of Justice. This act consolidated all of the individual courts and offices all over the city of Naples into one gigantic structure (some things never change). A new prison was built in the cellars along with the very in latest torture chambers, it’s all fun and games until someone pulls out the thumbscrews….

The appearance today is the result of a mid 19th century “restoration” that seems to have heavily romanticized the medieval structure.

An interesting note, on the rear of the structure is a fountain from the 1470’s that was built as a horse trough. It's hidden behind the open air vending machines and the newsagents. I kid you not...

Naples - San Gennaro Shrine - Porta Capuana

San Gennaro Shrine at Porta Capuana

Just outside the Church of Santa Caterina in Formiello there is a baroque shrine to San Gennaro (Januarius) patron saint of Naples. Constructed from black and white contrasting marble, two pilasters and a pair of volutes flank a bust of San Gennaro in an octagonal frame above a bas relief white marble drapery. Above this a broken pediment contains a coat of arms and two b@stard cherubs. Because as we all know everything needs more cherubs.

St. Januarius was born into a rich family sometime in the third century. He became the bishop of Naples and then annoyed the wrong people (namely the government of Emperor Diocletian, the only Roman emperor to retire of his own will) and was either torn apart by bears or beheaded or both. The cathedral of Naples is dedicated to him and it is here in Naples that his dried blood liquefies three times a year.

If you are ever in New York around the 19th of September (one of the days that the blood liquefies) check out the feast of San Gennaro in Little Italy.

Naples - Santa Caterina in Formiello

Santa Caterina in Formiello 

On the western side of the gate is the Piazza Enrico de Nicola and the Church of Santa Caterina in Formiello. Built in the very early 16th century this church has a sedate dignity in a fine contrast to the many baroque churches in Naples. Finely carved grey stone pilasters, courses, volutes, obelisks and a foof balustrade contrast with the plain white stucco walls. The western portal is carved from white marble and is restrained and flamboyant at the same time, possibly added or modified later in the 17th century.

Much has been written about the dome, which is supposed to be the first of its type in Naples. I cannot verify that, I can however vouch for the fact that there are at least a dozen similar domes in Naples.

Naples - Porta Capuana

Porta Capuana - rain in December...

Just north of the train station on a piazza on the west side of the Corso Giuseppe Garabaldi is part of the old Aragonese city walls. Or at least one gate; the Porta Capuana, named after the east-west roman road that led to Capua even though it was moved four hundred years ago and no longer straddles the road, stands like a triumphal arch beckoning and daring one to walk underneath its glory.

These walls were built under the expansion of the city under Spanish rule in the 15th century. Though the walls were demolished some time ago a number of the gate remain around the city as sort of curiosities. This one was heavily built over until the late nineteenth or early twentieth century. Old photographs show the buildings coming right up to it and even over it.

Like the castle Nuovo this is built out of the local dark grey stone, but has a magnificent triumphal arch in white marble. The treatment of the carving is superb and has some of those delightful Neapolitan renaissance quirky anomalies. For example the winged victories and the Corinthian columns are almost mirror images of ancient Roman examples, but the statues flanking the central shield are very stiff and unyielding, pointing to their 1484 date.

On the western side of the gate the Piazza Enrico de Nicola was filled with garbage. And some tremendously gorgeous buildings, but still a lot of garbage. It was a holiday, so I will have to assume it was a one off occurrence...though I might be a little optimistic.

Triumphal arch in the Porta Capuana; through the arch can be seen Santa Caterina a Formiello

Overall, brilliant...really brill. 

Naples - First Polytechnic Hospital

First Polytechnic Hospital 

From the Piazza Bellini if one heads east and away from the “major” street of Via Santa Maria di Constantinopoli, down the side streets where the Music Conservatory is located, you will come to a large fenced surface parking lot. The stretches across what is, for Naples, a large open space with a six story beige semi-castellated debased classical building of gargantuan proportions. The whole thing just screams hospital or mental asylum. And in fact it turned out to be the First Polytechnic Hospital. Built in the early 20th century it looms….not over anything in particular just general looming.

Right out front though there are some brilliant views and picture opportunities of the old brick tower attached to the old church of San Pietro a Marjella (now part of the Music Conservatory) and of Santa Maria Maggiore and it’s brick tower.

As we were coming around the corner a gentleman was telling some tourists a rather interesting story.  It involved the castrati (castrato singular) and the Music Conservatory. There are whole histories about the castrati from can be read or watched in many places.  The last work written for the role of a  castrato was in 1824. The practice continued, but with the Unification of Italy. It was made illegal to create new castrati and even to employ them in certain cases. Since the early 1900's the high voices are supplied by youths, mostly younger boys.

After years at St. Joseph's under the care of the Sisters of the Sacred Heart, I understand. One day my voice cracked and I was moved to the baritones. Relegated to providing background "glorias & lacrimosa's" until I emigrated to America; where I found my voice more suited to musicals.

This isn't about me. I digress as is my wont...The tour guide was explaining that this hospital is where people sent their (excess) children to become castrati. The tour guide was so sincere and his group so titillated, I just walked on. Everyone loves a scandalous past as long as it is truly past. If your father was politically ruined by having an affair with his secretary..that = horror/scandal.  If your great grandfather was a privateer that worked for pay and enslaved people for profit, well he is just a great American patriot. Sorry that was mean and I apologize.

Considering that the hospital was finished around 1908 and the last "official castrati" was "created"  in 1870 I’s say there were some flaws in his tale. It was fun to listen to, especially the hand gestures.

I eventually found the picture and here it is attached. 

Naples - Piazza Bellini, Greek Walls and Music Conservatory

Piazza Bellini

Greek Walls

Bellini led a short, but not tragic life. Ten of his eleven operas were successes and he was a well off man when he died at 
33 just outside Paris. 

He studied at the Music Conservatory which is located right next to the piazza now named for him and that bears a statue on a pedestal high enough that most of the graffiti remains at ground level.  I read that the four blocks at the corner of the statue once contained statues representing the heroines of his opera. They have since been removed. 

Also in this square can be found the remains of the Greek walls of the ancient city of Neapolis. I didn't see a sign when I was there pointing out what they were, however I had read about them before hand.  This square reminded me of Paris in a strange odd way. 

Walking towards the conservatory on a Holiday afternoon we heard classical piano music drifting from open windows of the old world flats nearby and the occasional operatic piece floated from a lace curtained window, music was everywhere drifting down from flower bedecked balconies on decrepit buildings. It was perfect. 

Then a man began to follow us and ask us for money. And he wouldn't go away, and after a block or so he began shouting. Now my Italian might be a wee bit rusty, but I am sure those were not the sort of words one wants to say in front of one's mother. Ah Naples, the passion, the pathos! Such life this city has!  Seriously though, lovely little piazza.

Naples Music Conservatory 

Naples - St. Michael the Archangel - Church

Front of St. Michael the Archangel

This church is located at the south end of Piazza Dante and fronting Via Toledo. St. Michael the Archangel is one of those churches where all of the architecture happens on the front leaving the sides and rear primed and ready bare canvases for graffiti. Slightly gritty, I was fascinated by the big mushroom shaped windows. The window on the front is almost lost in the serpentine and yet ponderous decoration, including the usual suspects: engaged columns, pilasters, broken pediments, big stone things with teeth and enormous c-scrolls. Not to mention an instantly recognizable statue of St. Michael

However the north side of the church is plain stucco and has the same delightfully shaped playful window. I believe the church has been recently restored on the inside. It was however not open when we were visiting.

Side of St. Michael the Archangel from Piazza Dante- Magic mushroom window!